Monday, September 8, 2008

About Suraikayur

Suraikayur is a tiny village situated on the northern bank of the Vettar River in the verdant Papanasam Taluk of the Thanjavur District in Tamil Nadu. It is about 25 km from Kumbakonam, and about 9 km from Papanasam. Nearby are the villages of Agaramangudi, also on the Vettar's northern bank, and Melattur on the river's southern bank. The famous temple town of Thirukarukkavur is about 4 km from Suraikayur.


Typically, after the monsoons, and after water has been released into the Cauvery from the upper reaches, the village turns lush green with paddy, trees and vegetation. The otherwise quietly flowing Vettar and its adjoining canals, which branch off from the Cauvery, swell. The banks of the river are lined with majestic banyan trees and tall groves of coconut. Gently swaying darbha grass thickens the shores and forms little green islands in the water. Against the blue sky, it is a picturesque scene indeed. Everywhere, with none of the pollution found in large towns and cities, the clean air is invigorating.

Across the Vettar, just adjacent to the bridge connecting Suraikayur and Melattur, and by the latter's bank, is an old and attractive bathing ghat. Although not in excellent repair, villagers can be spotted enjoying a peaceful bath here. This site is also beautiful for photo opportunities, or for just sitting down and enjoying the beauty of the tranquil river and its scenic surroundings.

Suraikayur has just two streets housing its residents. As one enters, to the left, is the street leading to the Sri Shyamala Kali Temple, a small shrine to Shakti. The second street to the left is an abandoned agraharam. No Brahmins live here anymore. At the end of this path is a temple to Vishnu, now in ruins. The ancient brick shrine looks enchanting despite its air of desolation. Back on the main street, further down, the road takes a turn to the right, passing by an elementary school. Just next door is another abandoned temple, this one to Shiva. Huge trees loom around and over it, their roots tangling over the crumbled structure. Even in disuse, it inspires and awes.

Further down and just beyond the school is the small but well maintained Sri Pushkalambika Sametha Mahasastha temple. The Sri Maha Sastha (Ayyanar) deity at Suraikayur is the kula deivam of the community of brahmins who migrated from Suraikayur centuries ago.

Both the Shiva and Vishnu temples appear to have been abandoned for a couple of centuries at the very least. Looking at their ruins, and the agraharam abandoned by its original inhabitants, one wonders why this came to be so. What were the compulsions behind what appears to have been an exodus? Did economic considerations drive the move? Is there any recorded history of this movement? The deities in the temples know.

1 comment:

Jai said...

Its nice to see the comments on my native.

i am born in suraikayur only.

nice to see the photos. i too have some gud photos of suraikayur....